From Food & Drink

Raspberry Ripple and Peach Melba Roulade

Summer Puddings

Pudding or Dessert?

The definition of the word “dessert” is a sweet course that is served at the end of a meal. It is usually made up of sweet foods, but can also contain other items, such as herbs and cheeses. The term “pudding” has become synonymous with the term “dessert” in the United Kingdom and a few surrounding countries. However, pudding itself is a dessert dish as well as a savoury dish that is part of a meal. Suet puddings with steak and kidney or mushroom and leek are typical examples.

The word pudding is believed to come from the French boudin, originally from the Latin botellus, meaning “small sausage”, referring to encased meats used in Medieval European puddings.

Though not always admitted, some people prefer to use the term dessert as against pudding as this has connotations of class. Using “dessert” is thought to be posher than a homely pudding. This distinction has changed with more traditional recipes making a fashionable comeback in recent times — such as spotted dick, bread and butter pudding and the timeless trifle!

Raspberry Ripple & Peach Melba Roulade

Raspberry Ripple and Peach Melba Roulade

Prep time: 20mins • Cook time: 9mins + 45mins baking peaches • Total time: around 30 mins • Serves 6

Ingredients
For the Swiss roll:

  • 3 large free-range eggs, room temperature
  • Half the weight of the broken eggs in caster sugar
  • Half the weight of the broken eggs in self-raising flour
  • 2tbsp raspberry jam

Filling:

  • 200ml whipped double cream
  • 100g raspberries
  • 4 peaches, oven-roasted, see recipe below
  • 2tbsp clear honey or maple syrup

Method for oven-roasted peaches

  1. Slice each peach into 8-10 slices.
  2. Put into an oven-proof pan with 2 tbsp water, and cook over a medium heat until just beginning to soften. Do not stir.
  3. Remove from heat and gently stir in 2 tbsp maple syrup or clear honey.
  4. Slow-roast in the oven gas Mark 2/150C for 45 minutes until starting to caramelise.
  5. Remove from oven and if using for the roulade, drain off any excess juice. The excess juice can be used as a coulis to serve with the roulade. These are also delicious served with Greek yogurt.

Method for roulade

  1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. Lightly brush the base of a 30cm x 23cm Swiss roll tin with vegetable oil. Cut a sheet of greaseproof paper to fit the base of the tin. Brush the paper with a little more oil, then dust with caster sugar and flour.
  2. Whisk the eggs and sugar in a bowl until pale and fluffy, until pale and thick enough for the mixture to leave a trail when the whisk is lifted. This takes about 5-7 minutes.
  3. Sift half the flour into the mixture and fold in very carefully until no traces of flour are left. Repeat with the remaining flour. It’s important to take your time and do it thoroughly.
  4. Halve the mixture and gently fold the raspberry jam into one half. Spread this gently into the prepared tin and top with the other half.
  5. Bake in the centre of the oven for 7- 9 minutes, until golden and risen and just firm to the touch.
  6. Remove from the oven. Lay a piece of greaseproof paper that is larger than the sponge on the work surface. Dust the greaseproof paper with caster sugar. Turn out the sponge onto the sugar-dusted paper. Peel the paper off the base of the sponge. Roll gently lengthwise and place on a cooling rack.
  7. Once the sponge is cool, unroll it gently. Trim off the edges of the sponge.
  8. For the filling, dot the sponge with the roasted peaches and raspberries, then top with the cream.
  9. Roll the sponge carefully. Drizzle the peach juices over the top and serve.

Brioche summer pudding with an iced custard filling

Brioche summer pudding with an iced custard filling

Prep time: 20 minutes, plus overnight in fridge & freezer • Cook time: 10 minutes • Total time: 30 minutes • Serves 1

Ingredients
For the Summer Pudding:

  • 60g strawberries, halved or quartered if large
  • 60g raspberries
  • 60g blackcurrant jam
  • 1 tbsp crème de cassis or Ribena
  • 3 slices brioche loaf

Custard:

  • 100ml whole milk
  • 5g caster sugar
  • 7g custard powder
  • 40g double cream
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla essence

Method for Custard

  1. In a bowl mix together the custard powder and sugar adding the milk slowly to make a smooth mix. Heat gently in a pan or in a microwave to make a smooth custard.
  2. Remove from the heat and whisk well. Stir in the cream and vanilla if used and whisk again.
  3. Pour into an ice cube tray. Cover with cling film and put in the fridge.
  4. When completely chilled, place in the freezer for a couple of hours.

Method for Summer Pudding

  1. Place all the fruits, jam and cassis in a saucepan and cook gently over a medium heat for about 4 minutes, until softened but still holding their shape or in a bowl for 2 minutes on medium in a microwave.
  2. Drain over a bowl, reserving the juice and allow to cool slightly.
  3. Cut two large rounds from the brioche slices and three strips to line the bowl. Dip one brioche round into the juice, soak well and use line the base of a small basin. Dip the strips into the juice and line the sides of the bowl. Fill with the fruit and place the remaining soaked round on top.
  4. Cover with clingfilm and place a saucer with a weight, such as a food can, on top and put in the fridge for 4 hours or overnight.
  5. 40 minutes before serving, score a small circle of brioche from the top of the summer pudding, put to one side, and remove a large teaspoonful of the fruit. Pop a cube of iced custard into the hole and replace the brioche.
  6. Invert the pudding onto a plate and spoon the summer fruit onto the top.
  7. Place extra cubes of iced custard around the edge. Leave for 40 minutes at room temperature.
Warm double choc hazelnut brownie at Lula in Bridport.

Review: Lula, Bridport – “a palace of delights”

Next to the Literary and Scientific Institute in East Street, Bridport, there stands another architecturally distinctive building. Upstairs, it houses a chamber of horrors (a dentist’s); downstairs, a palace of delights – Lula.

Lula, below the dentist in East Street, Bridport.
Lula, below the dentist in East Street, Bridport.

I’d heard a lot of good things about Lula, but what finally persuaded me to visit was a recommendation from both my dentist and his assistant. I was in the chair one day when, having questioned (as I always do) the need for any treatment and having eventually accepted the need to undergo the pleasures of the Little Ease and the Rack, I savoured an almost mystical moment – delicious cooking smells wafting in through the open window. The nurse assured me that I was still alive and informed me that the cause of my pleasure was Lula’s. She enthused about the burgers, as did the dentist. I survived sufficiently to lunch at Lula four times over the following weeks; I love it. The burgers are indeed magnificent; meaty, garlicky, herby. Forget about the latest gourmet burger place in London, this is much better.

Fishcake at Lula in Bridport.
Fishcake at Lula in Bridport.

Lula also offers much more; I’ve tried the fishcakes and the lamb kofte. Each really hit the spot. The fishcakes are not – as often found – actually potato cakes with a token amount of fish lobbed in; they are stuffed full of smoked haddock with a generous addition of spring onion but with sufficient potato to bind. I have to confess that I ordered extra chips before knowing this, but felt fully justified in having done so.

The kofte came with hummous, flatbread, salad, yoghurt and a delicious red pepper sauce. It’s zingy and deeply savoury.

Almond and raspberry tart at Lula in Bridport.
Almond and raspberry tart at Lula in Bridport.

Puddings sampled include a warm double choc hazelnut brownie, a lovely almond and raspberry tart and strawberry and vanilla pannacotta. I could eat them all again now – even the pannacotta which I usually dismiss as a slightly turbocharged blancmange. This was more creamy than cream.

When you add in friendly service and the pleasure of seeing Angie (the “la” in Lula) and her team working in the kitchen, I find myself wondering where else I’d rather eat in Bridport.

The moral of all this, of course, is that whilst you should always question any advice given by your dentist about your teeth, if he/she recommends a place to eat, do not hesitate; tear off that ghastly gown, jump out of the sweaty seat and leg it to that restaurant. In my experience, whilst dentists may know a lot about dental treatment, they actually know much more about what’s really toothsome.

Picnic Time with Yarn Magazine

Pack up a Picnic!

June and July are the best months for picnics. With any luck you get a run of those glorious hot days when the sky is as blue as jay’s wing and the countryside is green and lush. There are no wasps yet to bother you and the birds are still singing in the woods.

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Half Moon Melplash Sunday lunch

Reviewed: The Half Moon, Melplash

It’s not that common, in my experience, for a pub, or even a restaurant, to satisfy a simple test – the ability to serve a delicious Sunday lunch. There is a tendency for the kitchen, anticipating that hordes of customers will all descend at the same time, to prepare the food decades in advance of its consumption. Fresh it certainly isn’t. However, The Half Moon at Melplash, now under new direction from Karl Bashford and his wife Suzie, formerly of The Three Horseshoes in Powerstock, passes the Sunday lunch test with great ease and does so at very reasonable prices.

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Mashing in preparation for the brewing of one of Tapstone's ales

Change brewing in the world of beer

‘It’s full of stress, a lot of sleepless nights, but I love it, I’m not joking, the brewery’s my life, my girlfriend, my everything. It doesn’t feel like work, even though I work at least seven days a week’

So says James Davies, 31, from Halstock, between Beaminster and Yeovil. James is head brewer at Tapstone Brewing Company, which he set up in January, though the title of head brewer doesn’t really do justice to his efforts. He built the brewery himself, on an industrial estate in Chard, and he does almost everything else, including deliveries — he takes care to carry his casks upright and steady, rather than roll them around on the ground, so the beer settles quicker in pubs’ cellars.

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